2001-2004 HONDA GL1800 GOLDWING SPOILER INSTALLATION
I recently purchased my 2004 Goldwing and the dealer wanted to charge me a bunch to install the rear spoiler. And, they wanted to charge me a ton for the spoiler itself. So I ordered the item from Honda DirectLine (no shipping or tax) and for less money, and decided to install it myself. Below is a chronicle of my adventure of drilling holes into my new Wing, a feat that had me sweating bullets to the end. But, low and behold, it turned out beautiful. My advice is to have a soda (not a beer) nearby, no kids distracting you, and some Mozart playing on the boom box near the curb. All this will keep you focused and worry-free. Here are my steps and you will find its easier than you think!
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STEP 1: Take a swig of soda-pop. Turn up Mozart's 5th. Tell kids to "Get Lost". First cut out the template given to you with the spoiler. Make sure you cut out the two "holes" right on the money, so they match up to the lid later on. If you don't have a template, go to step to see where to find the 'nibs' on the lid, itself. Next, remove the item from the box...carefully, you don't want to scratch that beauty. Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable.
STEP 2: Remove the two latches with a phillips screwdriver.
STEP 3: Remove all the screws surrounding the inner trunk lid. Don't forget those down in the right and left corners.
STEP 4: Line up the template on the left side of the lid. You will see two molded circles on the lid surface. This is where you want to align the two holes you cut out. If you don't have a template, you can see three tiny (I mean tiny) nibs (or nipples, whichever you prefer) in the location of the three (+) marks you see in the picture below on the top-left edge of the template. These are the drill locations. Once you have the template lined up with the two large holes, tape it to secure it.
STEP 5: Use an awl (icepick for those that have a bar in the house) and punch the lid in the three locations on the left. The RIGHT side will only have TWO locations, since the center hole on the left is for the wiring harness to be fed through.
STEP 6: Hold your breath, close your eyes and drill like a mad man. STOP! Only kidding! Next is crucial. Use a drill with avariable speed (it works in your favor). Use a 3mm bit first, graduating to a 9mm and finish with an 11mm bit. Drill from the inside out. Duh, since your marks are on the inside. Drill pilot holes with the 3mm. When you go to the larger size bits, you will find the bits want to 'grab' the plastic and pull the drill into the lid. Try to keep this from happening. If it does, reverse the drill and let it come out slowly. This probably will clean the hole out and then you can re-insert the drill again. Finish with the 11mm bit. Always check the other side of the lid to be sure there is nothing that the bit will catch on. Like that beer you aren't suppose to have.
STEP 7: The holes should look like those in the picture below. Notice there are only TWO on the right side. Wondering why? It's because you didn't read the instructions above before going to this step, you knucklehead.
STEP 8: Take the spoiler out of the box, and thread the wiring harness through the center hole on the left side.
STEP 9: The hardest part (aside from recovering from the heart attack when you drilled the holes) is getting that damn wiring grommet to seat into the hole. Stuff it in, like you know you can, with a small screwdriver, being very careful not to slip and scratch the paint. This grommet must be in place properly if you don't want water to seep into the trunk and ruin all your Playboy magazines.
STEP 10: Take the blue tape off (save for later) on the bike side of the wiring harness (fig. A). Attach the wiring pigtail (should have come with the spoiler) between the spoiler and the bikes wiring (fig. B and C). Take the slack out of the wiring and reapply the blue tape (fig. D). This is a good time to hook up the battery again to be sure the light works before putting it all back. If it works, disconnect the battery again and continue. Safety first, my riding friends!
Fig. A
Fig. B
Fig. C
Fig. D
STEP 11: Put the wiring harness back into the the doo-dad mounted on the trunk inner lid. Wrap that metal strap around the wiring (you had to undo it before you took the inner lid off) and be sure that the wiring is not pinched or caught when you put the inner lid back into place.
STEP 12: Re-insert the inner lid, and replace all the screws. What? You can't find all the screws? What kind of mechanic are you? You should have placed them in a cup or a ball cap. Or had your dog hold them for you. If you can't find them, just get a roll of duct tape and tape that muthah shut.
STEP 13: Wha-La! Go ride it like you stole it! Huh? Won't start? Hook the battery back up.
COOL TIP I GOT FROM DOUG OF REDWOOD CITY, CA. Cut a slice in a tennis ball and then two holes at each end of the slice. Squeeze it like a lemon and put it over your antenna when the cover is on. This will keep the antenna from ripping the cover over a period of time. Thanks Doug!
Thanks for visiting, and I hope this helps!